Back to the main page Back to the main page
Back to the main page

Common modifications for tube amps, especially suited for Traynor tube amps.


WARNING! All amps contain lethal voltages; this is true for tube amps and solid-state amps. Certain components can store a lethal charge for days! The amp modifications described on this page are not intended for beginners. Please know what you are doing!

I will not accept responsibility for any information that is displayed on this page. The expressed opinions do not necessarily agree with my own.



Modifications

Safety Warning -
Read this first!
General Improvements for Traynor Amps
Tube Life
YBA-1 Bass-Master mod
Transient fidelity
Tremolo stage as a gain stage
Warm overdrive
Conversion to 6550s
Clean power




Safety Warning -
Read this first!
Safety Warning - Read this first!

Working inside a tube amplifier can be dangerous if you don't know the basic safety practices for this kind of work. If you aren't prepared to take the time to learn and apply the right precautions to keep yourself safe, don't work on your own amp. You can seriously injure yourself or get yourself killed. This section is not intended to be a complete guide to safety in tube equipment, just to hit the high points as refresher for those of you who have some experience. The best way to learn the requirements and practices for safety in tube equipment is to find someone who will teach you one on one.

Basic requirements:

  • UNPLUG IT FIRST Pretty self explanatory. Do not, ever, ever, leave the equipment plugged in and start work on it. Leaving it plugged in guarantees that you will have hazardous voltages inside the chassis where you are about to work. This is like setting a trap for yourself.
  • LET IT DRAIN If the amp has been turned on recently, the caps will still have some high voltage left in them after the switch is turned off. Let it sit for five minutes after you turn it off.
  • SUCK IT DRY When you open up an amp, you need to find a way to drain off any residual high voltage. A handy way to do this is to connect a shorting jumper between the plate of a preamp tube and ground. This jumper will drain any high voltage to ground through the 50k to 100K plate resistor on the tube. To do this successfully, you will need to know which pins are the plate pins. Look it up for the amp you're going to be working on. You'll need to know this for the work anyway. Leave the jumper in place while you do your work (high voltage electrolytics caps can "regrow" voltage like a battery sometimes. Really.) Remember to remove it when you finish your work.
  • TEST IT Take your multimeter and ground the (-) lead. Probe the high voltage caps and be sure the voltage across them is down, preferably to less than 10V.
  • BUTTON IT BACK UP FIRST Take the shorting jumper out. Put the chassis back in the cabinet, making sure all of your tools, stray bits of solder, wire, etc. are out of it. You don't have to actually put all the screws and so forth back in if you believe more work might be needed, but make sure that the chassis is sitting stably in the cabinet and won't fall out. At the end of a listening test, either continue buttoning up if you're done, or go back to UNPLUG IT FIRST.


    (Musical Instrument Tube Amp Building, Maintaining and Modifying FAQ V1.10 by R. G. Keen (keen@eden.com))

WARNING! All amps contain lethal voltages; this is true for tube amps and solid-state amps. Certain components can store a lethal charge for days! The amp modifications described on this page are not intended for beginners. Please know what you are doing!
General Improvements
For Tranor Amps
Tube Life

[Everyone] should be aware of the importance of screen protection through the use of high value screen resistors. No Traynor amp goes through [Kevin O' Connor's] shop without the replacement of the common 470R unit with individual 1k-5W units. There are usually extra eyelets along the edge of the card so these resistors can be mounted securely between the card and socket.

Individual bias controls are also installed and current sense resistors are added between pins 1+8 and ground. This also requires separate grid leaks and coupling caps for each output tube in 100W+ amps. Any carbon 1W/2W resistors are replaced with flameproof metal-films.

These mods greatly extend tube life; allow the use of various grades of tubes; and even allow the use of dissimilar tubes. 6550s will give a full-bodied tone compared to EL34s, which can be brittle for guitar but okay for bass. The true 6CA7 and 6L6GC-family, including the 5881, have a tone similar to the 6550, with the lower powered units offering "slightly less of everything".


(Kevin O' Connor)

WARNING! All amps contain lethal voltages; this is true for tube amps and solid-state amps. Certain components can store a lethal charge for days! The amp modifications described on this page are not intended for beginners. Please know what you are doing!
YBA-1
Bass-Master mod
Transient fidelity

This mod consists of an attempt to extract the most in terms of transient fidelity from the YBA-1 signal path without altering the gain structure or intended dynamics beyond, let's say what one might want to establish as a typically objectionable point in some kingdom somewhere...

[1a] decoupling input bias circuits, i.e., replace the 820 Ohm/250 uF bias circuit of the input gain stages by separate 1k5/125 uF and 1k5/0.68uF cicuits. Cap value varies according to taste, the larger cap will give you deeper bass response - Traynors seem to sound woofy if a too large cap is used here...
Some people like to keep the original functionality of the amp intact but then, in the separated cathode circuit version maybe have a large value on one side and a lean on the other as in Marshall 1986s and 1959s. I prefer
[1b] disabling the second channel altogether and having a non-electrolytic 0.68uF cap as the only cathode bypass cap in the whole signal chain - the amp then becomes a pure single channel, high transient fidelity signal path ...this is especially noticeable during periodes of sharp transient attacks... even at low level it'll knock you out...

[2] change 4Meg volume pot(s) to 1MegA for a less "spongy" attack ...

[3] change tone stack to 5F8/6-A values, i.e., 47k to 56k and 0.1uF to 0.02uF. This network impedance matches well with the spectral nature of many typical guitar pickups... amongst other things it brings in the midrange dip and narrows the treble and bass peaks closer together...

[4] I like the old presence control, i.e. the old "scratchy" style circuit with only the 4.7k Pot and cap on the wiper. Sometimes, as an add-on I like to use a
[5] dual 4.7k pot wired to a DPDT switch (to yield a 2.5k equivalent pot) in the presence circuit in order to alter loop gain of output stage feedback mixing at the flick of a switch... this tends to favorise pentode distortion in the amp and also loosens the output stage a bit - at lower volume settings this gives a normaly stiff class-AB amp a slightly livelier feel... I learnt a simpler version of this this from Dave Vidal in Vancouver who worked for Red Rhoads in LA during the seventies - the version I explain here is my own...

[6] I like reducing the 100k feedback return resistor to 47k, this tightens the output stage and balances things out with mod [5]... set to taste.

[7] The power supply B+ filters caps could use a few more Farads, 80/450 caps can become 100/450 and 40/450 caps become 50/450; as long as these values are not exceeded this won't harm the PT... on the other hand the preamp filter caps I leave as they are value wise.
You can experiment with the triode/pentode ratio when the amp is overdriving by altering the preamp voltage headroom. The values R21=4k7 and R32=10k can be changed to 1k, 2k2 repectively... I use 2Watt resistors for this... you will notice a cleaner and slightly brighter response from the amp... when cranked the pentodes will fire up earlier and give the amp a truely warm and sexy feel once
[8] a careful biasing and funetuning of the output tubes has been done.

I hope this encourages other YBA-1 owners to explore the hidden tone available in this underated beast... especially those who seek enhancements that don't alter the original set of dominant expressive characteristics surrounding the amp... these are my ideas and opinions only, feel free to add or change things to suit your own taste and needs...

Btw, in the single channel version of this mod the discarded gain stage can be used, in conjunction with a relay circuit, to give a 2 channel switching amp that produces a jaw dropping 70's overdrive and compression....


(JC)

WARNING! All amps contain lethal voltages; this is true for tube amps and solid-state amps. Certain components can store a lethal charge for days! The amp modifications described on this page are not intended for beginners. Please know what you are doing!
Tremolo stage
as a gain stage
Warm overdrive

[This may be applicable to a YGM-3 Guitar-Mate or a YGM-4 Studio-Mate. If so, would it be possible that somebody] correlates the instructions with the schematic part numbers (i. e. R22, C24, etc.)? Even after converting the nF cap values to uF, I still find some discrepancies between the instructions and what's in my '75 Studio-Mate, so I'm not sure what to do. And I hate screwing up.
Thanks, Paul

1) Connect the bias feed from the output tube grid leaks directly to ground-- if the output stage is cathode biased; or directly to the bias supply-- if fixed biased.

2) Remove the 20nF cap from between the Speed/10nF/20nF node and plate of the tremolo stage

3) Connect the wiper of the Intensity pot to the 10nF that feeds the splitter

4) Lift the 3M3 and 10pF from the above junction, and connect them to Spped/10nF node.

The Speed is now a tone control and the Intensity becomes a master volume. To give this control a more "logarithmic" feel, add a 25k between the wiper and ground.

Over-all, this mod produces a warm overdrive, depending on the pickups on your guitar-- good for jazz or blues.


(Kevin O' Connor acc. to Paul E. Simpson)

WARNING! All amps contain lethal voltages; this is true for tube amps and solid-state amps. Certain components can store a lethal charge for days! The amp modifications described on this page are not intended for beginners. Please know what you are doing!
Conversion
to 6550s
Clean power

Could somebody be more detailed about the following mod?

Version one:

[In my YBA-3, the] original tubes [used were] three 12AX7 and four 6CA7 that I swapped for 6550s (very easy, just boost bias about ten volts in order to have 30 ma. idle). Original input resistor was 100k and I changed it for 5.6 meg like [in] my Ampeg.

The sound is loud clean and fat, and can compete easily with any today bass amp reference especialy plugged into [a] SVT 8-10 cab. This is really true with this mod and really worth doing it since it doesn't affect cosmetics and [is] reversible. [Additionally, after the mod the tubes don't run that hot anymore, one can put one's hand on them.]

Version two:

[I've converted my YBA-1A and my YBA-3 to 6550 power tubes.] I'm a bass player, and I was looking for more of an "SVT tone", round, clean and full bodied, from the amps. This mod, described to me by Kevin O' Connor of London Power, consists of increasing the negative bias voltage to a level acceptable for 6550 operation, and adding 1Kohm/5w screen grid resistors, to pin 4 of power tube sockets.

The mod performed just as expected, resulting in two VERY loud, clean and fat sounding amps, especially the YBA-1A.

As far as speakers, I've used the amps primarily with 4x10s and 2x15s on gigs. The best sounding rig was the YBA-3 with the Traynor 8x10 "big bottom" cab, but im too old to lug this around. The ultimate earth shaker was the YBA-3 with a 4x15(!) Kustom bass cabinet... serious rumble.


(Anonymous, Mike Levy)


Home | History | Amps | Dating | Mods | Links



Velvet Black, Copyright © 1998-2013 by Daniel Cermak-Sassenrath
This is no official Yorkville Sound Ltd. site, and I am not affiliated with the company in any way.